Are You the Driver or the Hitchhiker?
The tiny off-grid community where I live in Hawaii is accessible only by steep, bumpy, unmarked dirt roads which require four-wheel drive and courage to navigate.
The valley walls feel like the moat around a castle, protecting us from an outside world that can feel noisy, harsh, and unforgiving. One of the things I love best about my hut in the rainforest is that I rarely hear a car, and even then, it’s usually far in the distance.
I’m much more likely to see neighbors walking past on foot or hear the clopping of horse hooves on the trail.
Of course, all this peace and quiet comes at a cost.
Going to town means a long, slow, dangerous drive. And if your car breaks down or gets stuck, you can’t just call a tow truck or summon a mobile mechanic. Hiking through the forest, you often stumble across the rusting remains of abandoned trucks dating back to the 1980s, with vines growing through their windows and fallen guavas rotting on their hoods.
It’s all too easy to imagine that yours will be next.
As long as I’ve lived in the valley, car trouble has been my number one source of anxiety, a recurring stressor in an otherwise delightful life.
Once, my car died on the steepest, narrowest section of the hill, and had to be backed all the way down. Another time, a rat got in through the glove box and chewed up the seat cushions and wiring. I’ve lost track of the number of hours I’ve spent messing with socket wrenches, jumper cables, and duct tape to frustratingly little avail.
Sometimes, I envy my neighbors who have eschewed car ownership altogether and simply hitchhike to town with a big backpack of laundry and an empty propane tank in tow.
They have it so easy—no repair bills, no headaches! —but of course, it takes them all day to get anywhere, and walking for miles with a propane tank takes time and effort that could be spent reading, writing, and working in the garden.
Although I’ve considered giving up my truck and joining them, it seems like there’s always one more load of lumber to pick up before I do.
A few weeks ago, some friends of mine came to visit for the weekend. I picked them up where the paved road ends and brought them down to my homestead, and we had a wonderful time collecting fruit and visiting on the lanai, but when the time came to drive them out again, my car wouldn’t start. After tinkering with it for a couple of hours, I went back to the hut and told my friends they would have to hitchhike back.
“Don’t worry,” I told them. “There’s a big rock at the bottom of the hill where everyone waits for rides. It’s a sunny weekend; you probably won’t have to wait long.”
Once I’d walked them to the gate and sent them on their way, I went back to my car, determined to try one more trick for starting it before declaring defeat. I scrounged around in the forest and found a long stick. I was poking at the starter when all of a sudden, a bright red Toyota truck came roaring up the stream.
The woman driving leaned over her passenger and waved at me.
“Do you know where Kulia’s place is?” she asked.
“Oh man,” I said. “That’s on the other side of the valley. You have to cross the river, then two or three more streams, then a sharp right by the breadfruit tree by the broken-down pickup truck…”
“Can you jump in and take us?” the woman asked. “We’re already late, and we’ll never find it without help.”
I glanced at the stick in my hand. Who was I kidding?
I wasn’t going to get my truck running like this. Might as well let the day take an unexpected direction. I squeezed into the truck and got acquainted with my new companions, native Hawaiians who had come down to the valley for a ceremony at an ancient village site.
We crossed the river, wound our way up the dirt roads, found the hairpin turn, and parked behind several other vehicles that had also made the journey down. Up ahead, in a clearing in the monkeypod trees, I could see people gathered solemnly in a circle, many of them wearing leis, and I heard oli, or sacred chanting.
“I should get home,” I said. Clearly, this gathering was not intended for outsiders.
“Oh no, you have to come with us,” said Auntie Ola, the woman who had first called to me from the truck. “You’re our guest now.” I wavered for a moment, not wanting to intrude on a sacred occasion, but then I realized that she was now offering me a gift.
“Well, that’s very kind of you, I’ll be happy to join” I said.
Although my day had started out with the stress and responsibility of a driver, I felt the joyful serendipity of a hitchhiker blossoming inside me as I followed them up the path.
Is it better to be a driver or a hitchhiker?
To me, this is one of the central questions of life. A driver can provide for others—coming through in an emergency, giving rides, moving heavy objects that a person on foot cannot.
A hitchhiker can receive what others have to give, while bringing a little novelty and magic into the driver’s day.
A driver is lucky to have security, comfort, and predictability; a hitchhiker is lucky to have freedom, even if it means getting rained on now and then. A driver can feel weighed down by responsibilities; a hitchhiker, stymied by dependence on others or worn out from the demands of the road.
Throughout my life, I’ve been both: a giver and a receiver, a guest and a host, a person catching a ride and a person offering one.
I’ve found meaning in both modes. And I’ve realized that both parties can fall prey to the same delusion. Drivers forget that they, too, can leave their cars at home and set off on an adventure, open to receiving whatever the world gives. Hitchhikers forget they can trade in their rootlessness for something that endures.
When one mode wears us down, we can and should switch places, even if it’s just for an afternoon.
Of course, the very best days are the ones when we somehow manage to embody both positions: giving and receiving, carrying and being carried, providing for others and finding ourselves unexpectedly provided for.
I wasn’t expecting my truck to break down, but I also wasn’t expecting to be gifted with the experience that was now unfolding as a result of that seeming misfortune.
A light rain began to fall as I stood on the edge of the circle. As I listened to the chanting, and watched the tall, thin waterfall tumbling down the cliff beyond where the singers stood, the beauty of it all gave me chills.
Afterward, there was a feast of taro, haupia, and other delights, and a slack key guitarist took the stage. I realized I recognized a few people from a land restoration event I’d volunteered at months before; as I chatted with them in the shelter of a monkeypod tree, my sense of being an intruder quickly waned.
Sensing that the rain was about to fall in earnest, I said goodbye to Auntie Ola and the others and started the long walk home.
It was a pleasure to stroll down the dirt roads that I normally only saw from my car.
On foot, I could see the avocados ripening in the treetops, and stop to pick hibiscus flowers for tea. When I crossed the streams, the cool water felt delicious on my bare feet. I was reminded of how much beauty I used to see as a hitchhiker, before car ownership boxed me up in a cage of metal and glass.
When I got back to the clearing where my neighbors and I park our cars, nothing had changed. I would still need to research my truck’s symptoms, order parts, and wrangle a mechanically knowledgeable neighbor to install them.
Doing all those things would take time and money. All the responsibilities of a driver were still on my shoulders; and yet I felt a new lightness around them.
Being whisked away by Auntie Ola had reminded me that there was a world out there that was bigger than my problems—beauty, grace, and joy unfolding all around me, even as the vexing tasks of life still needed to be solved.
Perhaps more importantly, it reminded me that the drivers of this world are carried along by the same breeze as the hitchhikers, even if it’s harder to see.
As we move into the height of spring, may you all enjoy the gifts of giving and receiving, and may adventure find you when you most need it.
Sincerely,
Hilary T. Smith
Senior Editor, Hierophant Publishing